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WizzAir has announced that it’s starting flights from London’s Luton Airport to Belgrade, Serbia. WizzAir becomes the first budget airline to fly from the UK to Serbia. News story here.

This substantially alters the picture of budget Balkan travel that I’ve presented in previous posts, and adds an exciting new set of new options for the budget traveller.

I must admit, I’m a little surprised that Belgrade has received budget flights before Montenegro’s airports. I would have thought Montenegro’s Adriatic coastline would have made it an attractive proposition for seasonal budget flights.

In my previous post, Budget Balkan Flights, I noted a big hole in the Balkans which receives no budget flights from the UK, and I suggested ways around this by flying into nearby countries and travelling overland.

It turns out that there are some other options which don’t involve the overland part. While no budget flights operate from the UK into Bosnia-Hercegovina, Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonia, Serbia or Albania, it’s not true that no budget flights at all operate into these countries. Almost all are served by German budget flights from carriers like GermanWings and AirBerlin, and Albanian destinations are served by many budget flights to Italy through carriers like BelleAir.

This gives the budget traveller another option for getting to these countries — pick up a cheap flight to Germany or Italy (or wherever) and then a budget flight onto Kosovo, or Albania, or wherever. Some of the above carriers will sell you tickets from the UK — for example, I recently booked a flight from Stansted to Sarajevo, via Stuttgart, for EUR83 (including taxes and charges).

If you lack the will to explore all these options for yourself, SkyScanner is the site for you. Included in its search results will be “multi ticket” flights which combine, say, a Ryanair flight to Berlin and then a GermanWings flight to Belgrade in the same search result. It’s a very useful tool.

One more point on this — for reasonably-priced flights to Albania, I was surprised to find that British Airways are a major competitor. Their one-way prices match the value of flying via Italy on budget airlines.

Hiatus Over

For the last part of 2009, travel was far from my mind. After my extensive September travelling, I think I decided enough was enough for a while. Despite making two overseas trips for philosophy-related reasons — one to Bologna and the other to Chicago/Kalamazoo — I didn’t have too much appetite for exploration.

But with the new year, my wanderlust has returned, and my mind has been drifting to places afar. As part of this, my desire to update this blog has returned.

Foremost in my travel-mind at the moment is my next serious trip. I’m planning to visit Bosnia and Hercegovina over the Easter vacation. I’m attracted to it as a meeting-point of East and West. Also, I have an appetite for somewhere off the beaten track, and BiH certainly fits that bill. I’m currently thinking about what would be the best entry point, since flights to Sarajevo itself are overpriced compared to some nearby destinations. Options include Zagreb, Budapest and Dubrovnik. I also need to read up on the country and find out what would be worth visiting.

More substantive posts to follow.

The Telegraph reports that the Noise Abatement Society is launching a campaign to “reduce the number and volume of messages that increasingly bombard people” in public places. One of the cases the article focuses on is that of rail journeys. To my mind, this is the single most irritating and frustrating aspect of travelling on mainline train services, so I’m very pleased that the issue has been raised.

I regularly travel from Leeds to Peterborough on National Express East Coast services. NXEC are by far the worst company that I’ve encountered for nuisance announcements. It’s been a couple of months since I travelled this route, and I’ve never made a list of the offending announcements, but as I remember it goes something like this. Before the train has even departed, a lengthy sermon about the trip and the need to have a ticket valid for this precise journey — which often sounds like it’s designed to make travellers feel like petulant children — is repeated twice. Once we get underway from Leeds there are two more announcements — one generic and useless, and the other advertising the catering car. After this, on a normal journey, each stop — and there are up to five between Leeds and P’boro — is accompanied by three announcements. The first alerts passengers to the upcoming halt, and reminds us to “take our personal belongings with us” — surely the most inane of all the reminders. The second, on departure, is another unnecessarily lengthy announcement welcoming passengers to the train. The third again advertises the catering facilities — that is, after every stop, there is a separate announcement advertising the food and drink available on board. It makes a complete mockery of the idea that there is a quiet coach on these trains.

There are a few points worth noticing about this unhappy phenomenon.

– It wasn’t always like this. The frequency and length of announcements has increased dramatically in the five years that I’ve been travelling this route.

– It isn’t like this on every service. The East Midlands Trains services between P’boro and Norwich assault the ears with far less frequency, and some, like the Leeds to Nottingham train, mostly leave their passengers in peace, only making a racket when a station stop is approaching. (I’ve no idea how other mainline services compare — I’ll be travelling Nottingham to London tomorrow, so will listen out.) This makes the claim of rail operators — that their announcements are only in accordance with regulations — seem odd. (If there are “EU regulations” about this, as the Telegraph article says, then I can confirm that nobody has told the Poles or the Hungarians — the trains I took there last month were completely devoid of announcements. What’s more, other trains I’ve taken this year in Austria and Germany have only made announcements about upcoming stations.)

– Much of the information is either superfluous or could be delivered through another medium. This is my main gripe. If we need to be told incessantly that advance tickets must be valid for this exact service, then you should tell us via signs at the station, next to the trains, and at the seats. If we need to be reminded to take our personal belongings with us, then put a visible poster next to the train exit. And for other “information”, why not provide it an on-board pamphlet which is provided to every seat, like many airlines do? Then only one announcement — that passengers should see the magazine for relevant information — would be necessary.

I think that the way to get operators like NXEC to change their practices on announcements is to make a noise back at them.

I’d be interested to hear how the NXEC stories compare to other rail operators.

Prizren, Kosovo: A mixture of Kosovan and Albanian Paraphernalia on sale, showing a strong Albanian identity among Kosovars

Prizren, Kosovo: A mixture of Kosovan and Albanian paraphernalia on sale, showing a strong Albanian identity among Kosovars. Note also the US flag -- America is popular in Kosovo.

The rail journey between Ukraine and southern Poland is one of Europe’s less-well-travelled routes, so there’s not too much information on the web about it. Last night I made the journey from Kiev to Krakow on the overnight train, so I thought I’d share the experience in the hope that it’ll be helpful for someone searching for advice on this route.

Firstly, and importantly:  you can only really make the Kiev-Krakow journey on the daily 20-hour train. Bahn.de will tell you that there are faster connections — notably the 13-hour journey with a half-hour lay-over in L’viv. I had planned to take this option, but the ticket office at Kiev would not sell me tickets for it. Apparently Ukrainian trains are not reliable enough to allow for 30-minute layovers. Given this, I think the best way to make the journey would be to spend a day or two in L’viv rather than going straight from Kiev to Krakow (or vice versa) — I would have done this had I had more time.

Secondly: costs. I was sold a ticket for 850 UAH (about 68 EUR) which was more than I expected, considering that the Budapest-Warsaw overnight train cost just 39 EUR. This got me a bed in the Polish carriage, in a pleasant compartment built for three (though, happily, I had the compartment to myself). There were Ukrainian carriages attached to the train too; I suspect they might have been cheaper. I’m confident that it would work out cheaper to do the trip in two legs; i.e. Kiev to L’viv and then L’viv to Krakow.

One reason why the trip takes so long is that Ukraine’s rail lines have a different gauge to those in Central Europe; so, on the Polish border at Przemyśl, each carriage going on into Poland has to be given different wheels. This is a time-consuming process. Thankfully, you can get off the train whilst it’s going on, and this gives you some time to explore Przemyśl, which is a pleasant provincial Polish town.

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The comination of these two phenomena:

  1. Cash machines which give out ridiculously high denominations of notes.
  2. Shop attendants who, when handed such notes, look at you as if you’ve given them a letter addressed personally to them featuring every expletive in their native language.

It’s avoidable, but still happens all-too-often.

This picture was taken in Kani Kombole, in Dogon Country, Mali

This picture was taken in Kani Kombole, Dogon Country, Mali

Just time for a quick note from Rome. Nothing especially original, just a quick set of impressions from a two-day stay. Here are three good things and three bad things about Rome. The ‘good things’ list leaves out the stuff that goes without saying!

Three good things about Rome:

  • Water. Rome famously has water fountains on every corner; and it’s just as well with the summer climate as it is. This has the knock-on effect that nobody overcharges for bottled water — I’ve not seen any priced at over €1. You only need to buy a bottle once, after all.
  • Easy and cheap to get around. Public transport is cheap and efficient; a 75-minute ticket costs €1. (Compare this to £4 for a single fare on the London Underground.) What’s more, this fare covers the extensive night bus system all the way out to the coast.
  • Not everything is as overpriced as you’d expect. Some attractions are, and some restaurants and cafes on the tourist strip. But you don’t have to go far off the trail to find something cheap — around the corner from my hostel (5 minutes from Termini) there’s a cafe doing excellent €1 lattes and €0.70 cappucinos.

Three bad things about Rome:

  • It’s packed with tourists. I have a love-hate relationship with A-List destinations for this very reason. Sometimes it can feel oppressive to be surrounded by English-speaking tour groups and constantly flanked by open-top tourist buses. There’s a lot of that here — and the queues for the major tourist attractions have to be seen to be believed. But somehow it’s not been nearly as bad as I expected; I guess that’s because I was expecting it , whereas I was slightly surprised by how packed Prague and Dubrovnik were, for example.
  • Touts. These are an unavoidable part of any popular city, and the immense popularity of Rome means that they’ve got it down to a fine art. You can’t walk far without someone trying to tell you something. They aren’t as persistent or as annoying as those in Mali, for example, but there are far more of them here — and you can only turn down a tour of the Vatican so many times in one morning before getting a little peeved.
  • A pigeon pooped on me. Not as polite as English pigeons, this Roman lot.

This wouldn’t be much of a travel blog if its author didn’t do some travelling now and again. Tomorrow morning I’ll be embarking on a 13-day trip, taking in three corners of Europe, for a number of purposes.

First I’m going to a good friend’s wedding in Rome, and later to a philosophy workshop in Oslo.  In-between and after I’ll be spending some time in Hungary (one day), Poland (three days) and Ukraine (three days). This will be my first time in Norway, Poland and Ukraine, so I’m especially anticipating those parts of the trip.

I expect to be offline for most of the fortnight, so there’s unlikely to be a substantive post here until I get back. I’ve scheduled a few photo posts to keep the place active. If I get online, I might drop a quick note. Hopefully on my travels I’ll garner plenty of useful material for future postings!

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